Search options (Page 1 of 6)

If your FO (face on) camera is not fixed to the wall, I would recommend the 6mm lens. Then you can play around with the distance to get it optimized. If you will increase the recording fps, you have to reduce the image height. Then you might go a little bit closer to the object to catch all of the swing. If the camera is fixed to the wall, a more detailed calculation of the geometry is recommended to find the optimal solution. However, there are only 6 and 8mm lenses available, nothing in between. So moving the camera to optimize the FOV is the best you can do.
These both lenses will fit perfectly to the IMX174 sensor camera:

GetCameras LCM-10MP-06MM-F1.8-1.1-ND1
Non-Distortion, Price 398,- Euro

Kowa, LM6HC, 6 mm, 1“, F1.8
Low-Distortion, Price 600,- Euro

I have two of the GetCameras - lenses and they are pretty solid. Didn’t find a better one at that price for the IMX174 sensor camera.

David, be aware that the ACA1920-150 has a 1/1.2" sensor (not a 2/3" sensor !). You will get vignetting (borders of the image are darkened) due to that the aperture of the lens is too small for that sensor.
In general, the lens should be adapted to the sensor format. If the lens has a value of 2/3", it will fit on a 1/3" sensor, but not on a 1/1.2" sensor due to the smaller opening diameter of the lens.
The aperture value F determines the maximal opening of the individual lens, determining the amount of light that will go into the camera. Values below F2.0 are OK, F1.4 is very good, F1.2 is perfect. Lower F-values and higher sensor-values are resulting in higher lens prices.
Always check the exact specification of the lens, if it will fit to your individual camera.

It is true that the prices of the lenses for the 1/1.2" sensors are higher. I'm actually using 3 of these cameras from Daheng (have had different 1/2.9" sensor-cameras before) and I think it is worth the price.
If you would like to stay in the medium range, use a 1/2.9" mono sensor-camera (IMX273), and use the S12-lenses that are below 100 Euro, but the light intensity is not as high compared to most the C-mount lenses. You might also look for relatively cheap C-mount lenses in the area of 100 Euro. If your camera-object distance is pretty small, you have to go below 4mm lenses. S12-lenses then are appropriate.

You will also find some other posts in the forum discussing that topic

Do not yet really understand what your measurements will be and for what you need such a high resolution.
I would recommend making a test using the camera of your handy at high speed and reduce the frame size afterwords to see how far you can go down to not loose the information you would like to see. I'm always wondering, of how low resolution will give a lot of information if the image is crisp enough.
Ask the representatives of Daheng regarding the technical details of the Mars camera. I think they can tell you what resolution/fps you may reach with and without a frame grabber.
I have no experience with 10GigE transfer cameras and do not know what the transfer limit will be in real life.
You may estimate the data transfer you need by using the formula: width * height * fps * C/M(factor) / 1000000, resulting in MB/s. For color use factor 3, for mono use factor 1 The limit of USB3.0 is about 350-400 MB/s.

keep in mind that reducing the HEIGHT of the image will increase the fps. Changing the width has no effect.

Blurring is NOT related to fps. Increasing the fps will increase the number of images you will capture in a given distance (in moving objects). The shutter speed alone determines, if each single image shows a blurring. The amount of blurring depends on the speed of the moving object. A shutter speed of 1000 microseconds, for example, means that for each video the camera is recording, the shutter remains 1000 microseconds open during each image is recorded. If the object moves slowly, the amount of blurring is low. If the object moves fast, also 1000 microseconds creates a significant amount of blurring. Of course, blurring is most visible, if the camera is positioned perpendicular to the moving direction.
I suggest, that your intention is to reduce the blurring in your image and a lower fps will be sufficient.

Don't know if Kinovea can recognize a colored marker. In most cases, the marker is more bright but not colored. Mono cameras have a higher light sensitivity (need less light) giving a good image contrast.

The lens should be OK, Aperture of 1.6 is a good value. 1/2“ will fit to the 1/2.9“ sensor to prevent vignetting.
I assume it is a C-mount type. If you will buy a further lens, try to go down to a fixed focus lens with an aperture of 1.2 , it increases the brightness of the image a lot and gives you a more crisp image. On the Basler webpage there is a good lens calculator to estimate of what lens you need. Set your distance of the camera to your room dimension and the width of the FOV to about 4,5m to calculate.

30000 lumen is a lot. I have 2x20000 but installed a 1-10V dimmer to better adjust it to the local light situation.

I highly recommend a mono camera due to factors:
In USB-cameras the limit of bandwidth is in the range of 300-400 MB/s data transfer.
Assuming an image of 1000x800 pixels, fps 100, AVI/MKV uncompressed format, in color mode the transfer is about 240 MB/s (1000x800x100x3)
Going up to 1240x1024 pixels, fps 100, the raw data transfer already is 571 MB/s and therefore over the limit.
Same resolution using mono, it is about 190 MB/s (1240x1024x100x1).

You could say, OK, I will use the compressed format MP4. However, then the computer system/Kinovea will have to do the compression and you will see a lot of dropped frames.
To overcome that situation I checked the Baumer camera. They have MJPEG compression build in. But they cost 2500 Euro each.

The second reason I like to use the mono camera is the light intensity that is much better in mono-cameras compared to a color camera, needing less surrounding light.

Anyway, in indoor video analysis you need a lot of light. I actually have switched from an Optoma 1090 HD-projector (3000 lumen) to the Optoma 4K400STx (4000 lumen) and the improvement is impressive. I think it is not only the 4k but more the much brighter image. The screen washout now is minimal also in the situation of sufficient LED light.

I do not think that there is a real difference between the Daheng and Basler camera of the same IMX274 chip. The support of Daheng was fine and needing 2 camers the difference already is 250. The only advantage of the Basler to me was the driver. You can connect and disconnect the camera at any time and it works. However, this advantage only was evident during testing a lot outside Kinovea. If you have Kinovea running, the plug and play doesn’t work anyway and is not needed.

To answer your question some more information is needed.
What is your intention to use a very high resolution?
It would make things much easier to use a lower resolution around 800x600 or 1000 x 800, having the amount of data to be transferred in mind. Using this resolutions, a much cheaper camera can be used.
If you go up to the resolution of your selected camera (4192X2160), you will have significant problems to use a high frame rate due to the limitation in data transfer. Therefore, Getimage recommends a frame grabber that will create higher costs ( 2x500 Euro). if you select this solution, you have to check if you can use the high frame rate AND the high resolution at the same time. However, the file size of the created video will be huge.

In any case, do not use a rolling shutter camera. You will have a lot of image deformation (bending or extrusion of the objects).

All Daheng cameras that use the Galaxy driver can be used with Kinovea (as far as I know).

All GigE cameras have a lower data transmission limit compared to USB3.0. Maybe using a frame grabber can enhance it, but you should check what the limit is.
The limitation of cable length of USB can be overcome to a given amount. Using high quality cables you might extend the system up to 10m. Using special cable also to a higher distance (see Basler webpage for examples).

Beside frame rate the shutter speed is a very important factor and most often the more critical value. I suggest that you would have to go down to about 500-1000 microseconds to get a crisp image in your video. Otherwise you will have a lot of blurr in it if you look on the video image by image.

Regarding frame rate. In normal gait (about 2-5km/h) I would estimate the speed of the moving leg at about 20km/h. That is 5,5m/second. Using 100fps, you get an image every 5cm of movement, going up to 500 fps every 1,1cm.

Do you use your application indoor? If so, be aware that you may need a lot of light if your shutter speed goes down to 500-1000 microseconds. An absolute flicker free lighting is necessary.

The much cheaper cameras of Daheng already will give you a lot of options to adjust all the necessary parameters.

Two recommendations:
MER2-160-227U3M
1/2.9“ sensor IMX273, resolution 1440x1080, 227 fps, USB3.0

MER2-230-168U3M
1/1.2“ sensor IMX174, resolution 1920x1200, 168 fps, USB3.0

Similar cameras from IDS and Basler are available, but at a higher price.

I recommend a mono camera due to better light intensity and 1/3 of the file size compared to a color camera.
I use 3 of the 168U3M at the same time in video golf recording. The image quality if pretty good. I also have a camera from Basler with the IMX273 that gives pretty good images.

Keep in mind that you can increase the frame rate of both cameras by reducing the image height (not width). Reducing it for example to 1/2 of the specification, the fps rate increases by a factor of 2. This works proportionally.

The 1/1.2“ sensor camera has a better image than the 1/2.9“ and needs less amount of light. However, the lenses for the 1/1.2“ camera are much more expensive.
The camera plus lens cost of the 1/2.9“ camera is around 500 Euro, of the 1/1.2“ camera around 1100 Euro.

Selecting the right lens for your application may be a further topic. But first you should carefully define your geometrical situation of distance to the object and  the field of view you would like to record. On the Basler website you may find a valuable tool to calculate the FOV for a given image sensor/lens combination.

Regarding the workflow you might look on the Golfsimulator-forum. A versatile script, not only applicable for Golf, is available. It can load a complete setup with one click once it is defined and do a lot of post processing to extract videos, single or stacked images, user management etc..
Search for: „Comprehensive programs supporting video golf recording using Kinovea“

To record before the impact, you have to do the following:

Select options from the menu, then preferences, the preferences dialog appears

Select Capture
select the Recording Tab
activate "Delayed: records delayed frames"

I’m using Kinovea on parallels on a Macbook Pro since many years for testing and configuration and it works fluently with all versions.

It also works with the machine vision cameras of Basler, IDS and Daheng if the appropriate driver is installed (Pylon 6.01, IDS 4.95 and Galaxy actual version). All settings of the cameras can be modified.

If OVC-compliant USB2-cameras from ELP or Kayeton are used, it is somehow tricky to set these cameras to the maximal resolution they can deliver. Sometimes they are connected with a maximal framerate of 30 or 60, sometimes with the higher frame rate of 120 fps. To be honest, I could not find a reproducible way to set it to the highest frame rate.