FH100 Settings. The FH100 can be set to save many settings including ISO. MENU-REC-MEMORY (last) - ISO In MEMORY pick what you want to have set when you turn on the camera next time. Take care with this as, for example, you might not want the 10 sec trigger delay that you use for golf videos set the next time you grab the camera for stills. I’m still reading the 202 page user's manual and finding good stuff for high speed video settings.
I have not used the high resolution continuous stills operation. You can save 30 high resolution still frames taken as fast as 40fps. I'm not sure of the fastest shutter speed and have not tested for the Jello Effect.
Update (2/23/2013) - Burst Mode & Jello Effect Stills Testing- http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/post/39393614
For stills the Casio FH100 can also do 10 fps using a mechanical leaf shutter (slower than the 40 fps electronic shutter). There is less distortion because the camera uses a mechanical leaf shutter instead of a focal-plane mechanical shutter.
Some first thoughts on high speed imaging for archery:
Internet Search. Searched archery and FH100 or High Speed Video and found lots of Youtube examples. YT applies video compression and you cannot do stop action frame-by-frame. I use Vimeo for videos because Vimeo uploads the full video. You still cannot do stop action viewing on the Vimeo site. But others can download the video for proper stop action frame-by-frame viewing__CORRECTION SEE BELOW
Details on compression & non-compression as used by Vimeo are described in these FAQ-
http://vimeo.com/help/faq#compression.
UPDATE (2/20/2017) - Youtube Single Frame - use the " . " PERIOD keystroke and the " , " COMMA keystroke.
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UPDATE 2/20/2017 - Vimeo has a stop-action single-frame capability viewing on line using the arrow keys. When watching a Vimeo video on line you can do stop action single frame forward and backwards using the arrow keys. Hold SHIFT KEY and use the RIGHT & LEFT arrows.
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I had found another link, now misplaced, to an archery application in England that had very useful information for high speed videoing of archery (an archery club?).
Here’s an interesting discussion.
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/ … foOcFstXng
General Framing. Frame to cover all the action and maybe a little more, +/- 5% on the sides, top & bottom. If a video has anything interesting outside the frame that is missed and the event can be repeated, always repeat the event and video it again. Erase the poorly framed video later.
Along the Trajectory Viewpoint. Camera views along (parallel to) and on the line of the trajectory's line will show the arrow for some distance. Use the longest FL lens setting, 240mm, and frame the archer tightly by moving back. If you use a wide angle FL the arrow image will become too small as it moves away and you will lose it much sooner. On the other hand, wide angle lens settings probably produce a more attractive video of the archer.
Along the Trajectory Viewpoint for Incoming Arrows - Not for the Faint-of-Heart or Careless. You can also shoot just to the side of or even at expendable mirrors for videos of incoming arrows – perhaps for the first time. But the camera has to be very well protected including from arrows ricocheting from the mirror. As a last protection the camera should view through a Lucite protective window (1/2”) and probably be in a heavy protective box. The smaller the mirror the closer the camera must be…………..
Backgrounds. To see arrows pick your backgrounds carefully. Woods in shadow are convenient backgrounds as I just found for tennis serves. Black targets that contrast with the arrows, etc.
Daylight Illumination. For overcast I can shoot at 1/10,000s and ISO 3200 where 1/10,000s is very adequate for tennis strokes. But in direct sunlight 1/40,000s should work also for larger apertures. 1/40,000s will catch the arrows with less motion blur as calculated earlier.
LED Markers. I did some tests recently for markers using LEDs that are available very cheaply - “Throwies”. The ones I tested had directional beams (light emitted into an 8°cone) and therefore I did not think they were suitable for markers for most athletic motions. For your arrows they might be ideal. You might attach one to your arrow pointing back and see what you get. I don't think one of these coin-sized LED/Battery assemblies can be a safety problem but consider with due care.
Arrow velocity. Velocity equals distance travel divided by the time between frames. If known, use the arrow length in the video as a convenient scale. Be aware of motion blur errors which can easily be made negligible.
Arrow Impacts. Use the frame rate and motion blur calculations in this thread along with arrow velocity to calculate whether you can expect interesting results. Use 1,000fps and a very tight coverage of say, the popular apple target. Protect the camera from stray arrows and if necessary view through a window to protect the camera from splatter and don’t mount the apple on something that could deflect the arrow toward the camera.
Jello Effect. Because of the very high velocity of the bow motion be aware of the Jello Effect discussed in this thread. The top and bottom of the bow will be mirror images. If not, suspect the Jello Effect. Test for by rotating the camera 90 & 180 degrees and repeating the videos.
Attractive vs. Analytical Videos. I have no opinion on this issue but I have read that minimizing motion blur might make display videos less attractive. That is, some motion blur should be present for the most attractive display videos. When your objective is for more attractive display videos, as opposed to frame-by-frame analysis, experiment with shutter speed to get the most attractive videos. Slower shutter speeds also allow you to use a lower ISO number and reduce the noise introduced by the higher ISO numbers. If you are doing analytical work always minimize the motion blur.