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sounds interesting. It is hard to imagine to have a 100W LED light at that price.
An appropriate quality LED-light of 50W, having a flicker-index of 0,01 I didn't found below 90 Euro. At 200fps you still can see some flickering. At 100fps it is OK.
Absolutely flicker free is the Aputure Amaran HR672S, 25°, about 4600 Lumen, but it costs about 250 Euro.

It would be interesting to know, at which fps-rate and shutter-speed you test these lights.
A simple test would be to use the handy in slow motion recording mode. Most (at least the iPhone) have a slow motion record at 120fps and 240fps to make a quick check.

Hi Joan,
did a lot of testing. It really is a concern if going > 100fps.
At 100fps, flickering is not a problem as far as I have seen. Also if "standard" lighting/LEDs are used.
Interestingly, NOT special LEDs are rather worth compared to regular lighting due to the fast reaction in relation to the changing current.

If LED light is selected, the flicker-index should be below 0,05 (or lower !). But also using these lights, some flickering is visible at fps above 150 fps.
The reduced flickering at 100fps cannot be found any more if fps is > 150fps. At 200fps, there seems to be now beneficial effect.
Of course, it heavily depends on the shutter speed. If shutter speed is below 1000 microseconds, flickering becomes evident. Furthermore, under not professional conditions (as my Garage - SIM ) if Color video is used, the image quality becomes worth. So I actually exclusively use MONO8 to speed up data transfer and to get the most light to the video.

One camera I use is an IDS 3140 at about 1200x500 pixels using 300fps (Mono of course). shutter speed 200 - 500 microseconds. It comes from the top and is focussed on the golf ball at an object frame of about 1x0,5m. To reduce the flickering I use an AMARAN Spot-LED that is ABSOLUTELY flicker-free. That works pretty good.

A further, rather simple effect I have seen is, that it is important, not to have reflecting objects (also the ground can be reflecting). That increases visible flickering.

A further test I made is to use three-phase current that I furtunately have at my Golf-simulator-room. There are 3 LEDs connected to each phase with the idea, to reduce flickering. However, at 200fps there still is some flickering also when using LEDs having a flicker-index below 0,01.

Hi,
using the Basler lens selector you can choose your camera and lens and the distance camera-to-object to see the dimension of the frame the camera can record. Your pixel size of the sensor is 6,9 micrometer, so 5MB resolution should be enough. Open the aperture fully to 1,8.
If the recording-window is too small in dimension, you would have to go below 4mm focal length. However, most C-mount lenses do not go below 3,5mm. To go further down to about 2,8-2,9mm (I use it for down-the-line recording from a distance of 1,9m) you would have to use S-mount lenses.
However, the internal color-adapter of the camera might have to be removed to bring the lens close enough to the sensor. You should check with Basler to get it work it necessary.
To my (painful) experience, selecting the right lens is not as easy as I thought at the beginning. So it would be good to be sure to get it returned if it doesn't work as expected.
Regarding light, 250W LED should work. Start at 100fps framerate and 1000microsecond shutter speed. To get the image (the club) completely freezed you would have to go down to 200microseconds (not milliseconds!). However, going below 1000microseconds and over 100fps, the lightning source should have a near zero flicker index, otherwise the video flickers tremendously.

most of the handy-cameras recorded videos did NOT use a constant framerate. Therefore, it may be favorable
to convert the video to a constant framerate. Furthermore it may help to convert the video to "mjpeg" to store a full frame to every frame. MP4 is the container but does not control the content of the video. Be aware of creating a hugh file using the mjpeg-options.

using FFmpeg the option -c:v mjpeg creates a video that contains a full frame for EVERY frame, not only the difference from one frame to the other. This type of video can be read in Kinovea and it is possible to scroll back and forth from one frame to the other. Furthermore, you could experiment of using a constant framerate for the output-video using the -r option. The quality is controlled by -q:v 2 (highest quality, 23 lowest).

Example
ffmpeg -i input.mov -c:v mjpeg -q:v 3 -r 30 output.mp4

Hi,
I'm glad to see that others are also using Basler-cameras. So far, my experience is very well with them. In general, the interface is very stable.

The problem definitively is the bandwidth, it is too high and over the limit. I would suggest, that using your resolution in color, about 40fps would be the maximum any system can transfer.

My camera is a MONO 1,4MB (1440x1080 pixel, 220fps, Basler ace acA1440-220uc). Trying to use the maximal setting with this camera, the limit already is reached.

Recommondation:
- First check your hardware configuration using the BANDWIDTH-Manager in the pylon interface (under Tools). Look on the maximal bandwidth your system can deliver.
Play with the parameters of the camera and check out, what will be the maximal setting you could use on YOUR actual system. Then, go down a little bit to take the conversion inside Kinovea into account.

- Start using MONO8, Resolution 800x600, 100fps. The bandwidth will be about 100MB/s and should run smoothly.
Then go up with the resolution and the fps and see, what the Pylon-program will show. To my experience, the bandwidth should be below 300MB/s to work stable (having a dedicated USB3.0 interface).
If you use color (PixelFormat RGB8) acquisition, the transfer-rate will increase by the factor of 3 !

- Try out BINNING, if available in the color version. It reduces the resolution by 2 and gives you a much brighter image at the same lighting.

- regarding hardware: it is important to have at least one dedicated USB3.0 port available where no other devices are connected. I'm using a separate PCI-card with 2 INDEPENDENT USB 3.1 V2  ports and the USB 3.1 -port of the motherboard.

- If you have only 1 camera connected, your hardware should be sufficient. Check it out looking at the CPU-Load. Open Task-Manager, click on "more details" and you can see the amount of CPU-load of all your tasks.

Hi Inorkuo,
I already did a lot of performance analysis of the new version. Depending on the CPU-type the load is different. More Cores and threads decrease the loading a lot. I just work on an load/Bandwidth overview of different processors/camera settings and will publish it the next time. In short CPU/Load (delayed mode) for 1 Camera/1Kinovea:
Pentium Core2: 45%, i5-9600k: 25-35%, i9-9900: 12%

If Kinovea is in delayed mode (for us golfers a must have), it is quasi under full load. If record is pressed, the load will NOT increase any more, it stays at the same level. If in camera mode, the load goes down to below 5%, but if record is pressed, it goes up to the same level as in the delayed mode. Therefore, it doesn't matter if delayed mode is used anyway.